CLF 2022 Auction: Lady’s Pocket by Heather Schneider

 

The creative women of the CLA have made this year’s fundraising auction a pleasant exploration of often underappreciated aspects of early American life. For this year’s live fundraising event, artist Heather Schneider has created what many of us take for granted in the modern world: a pocket.

Schneider’s pocket will work well at a living history event or as a delightful addition to your home collection. The pocket is based on an original 18th century design which can be found in the Bankfield Museum in Halifax, England. A student of history, Schneider quotes from the book The Pocket, A Hidden History of Women's Lives: "The motif of some pockets certainly confirm the emotional associations of the pocket as a repository of a woman's sentimental attachments, whether secret or not. The heart as a sentimental motif was popular in all settings and media....A number of surviving pockets bear heart motifs.”  

This entirely hand-sewn pocket is made with a white linen front; the crewel work was executed using wool yarn. The front crewel work panel is backed with white linen; the back pocket panel is a checked linen. The pocket is trimmed with a burgundy wool twill tape. The linen tape used to secure the pocket on the waist was loomed and donated by Judy Wilson, an interpreter at Pricketts Fort who specializes in weaving and dying.  

Schneider brings a lifelong interest in history to her craft. “I began reenacting 35 years ago when I met my husband,” she explains,” over time, I concentrated on life on the colonial frontier and cultivated an interest in foodways and hearth cooking.” Schneider regularly teaches at living history events at sites including Fort Niagara, the Fort LeBoeuf Museum, and Pricketts Fort.

For more information on the work of Heather Schneider, contact: rubydoo54a@gmail.com

Text by Joshua Shepherd

Photography by David Wright

To see all the artists’ postings for the 2022 CLF Fundraising Auction go to:

http://www.contemporarylongriflefoundation.org/2022-fundraising-auction/

CLF 2022 Auction: Housewife Sewing Kit by Rebecca (Beckie) Mooneyhan

 

In the 18th and 19th centuries, any man unlucky enough to need clothing mended while away from home desperately needed the assistance of a “housewife”, or as they’re prosaically known a “huswif.” 

Whether in the barracks or in the field, soldiers and frontiersmen could tackle the job of repairing their clothing or uniform with a tidy, portable sewing kit known as a housewife. The term goes back to at least the middle of the 18th century, but this year’s CLF Live Fundraising Auction will offer the modern frontiersman his own portable “housewife.”

Artist Rebecca (Beckie) Mooneyhan has created a reproduction portable sewing kit that will come in handy for your next living history event, or for that matter, around the home. It’s a pocket-sized sewing kit suitable for a lady or gentleman. As her inspiration, Mooneyhan loosely based her creation from an original example which she viewed at Colonial Williamsburg.

Mooneyhan’s housewife is made from an eclectic mix of historically-based reproduction fabrics, including brown check linen, blue check cotton/linen, and wool. The entire piece, measuring 3 3/8 inches wide and 10 1/2 inches long, was hand-sewn with cotton thread. “Waste not want not,” says Mooneyhan, “this little sewing kit is heavily pieced.”

This housewife comes empty, and for good reason. “It is empty,” explains the artist, “and has no pins or needles as some historic documents suggest some housed precious items like rings or jewelry and not just sewing paraphernalia.” 

For more information on the work of Rebecca Mooneyhan, contact: plantgrrrl@gmail.com

Text by Joshua Shepherd 

Photography by David Wright

To see all the artists’ postings for the 2022 CLF Fundraising Auction go to:

http://www.contemporarylongriflefoundation.org/2022-fundraising-auction/

Linen shot pouch by Shaun Pekar

 Linen shot pouch by Shaun Pekar is a close copy of an original circa 1775.

This shot pouch is based on one in the New Hampshire Historical Society

More information can be seen here.

Photography by Jan Riser.

18th Century Bed Furniture

In the 18th century bed furniture refers to cloth objects such as the bolster, bolster case, pillow, pillowcase or pillow beer, sheet, blanket, rug, quilt, coverlet and counterpane.  The bed, bolster and pillow were filled with feathers, chaff or flock and sewn shut at each end.  

Most sheets were either fine or coarse, but could also be tow or twilled.  Fabric was normally bought at a store and made into sheets by someone in the household.  Sheets were center seamed and hemmed at both ends.

Bed Case

Coarse Linen

82” length x 51 “ wide

3 Panels – 2 panels  - 33” wide with 3^rd panel 39 1/2” wide

All 3 panels 82” length

Sewn closed on one end and sewn halfway closed on the other end. The case could be removed, washed and then stuffed with the tick.  The weave is not twill or tight enough to hold feathers. The two examples from Colonial Williamsburg below held straw so it is possible that this one did also. Useable. There are several place where the weave is lose. The photos show the case folded in half.  Bought from a Pennsylvania Antique Textile Dealer. 

American (Likely Pennsylvania) Plain Weave/Tabby Linen mattress Tick - Once Straw Filled

Width 54 1/2" Length with Selvage 27 1/4"

c. 1750-1830

Colonial Williamsburg

American (Likely Pennsylvania) Plain Weave/Tabby Linen mattress Tick - Once Straw Filled

Width 54 1/2" Length with Selvage 27 1/4"

c. 1750-1830

Colonial Williamsburg

18th CenturyCoarse Linen Sheet

83” length x 77” wide

2 panels – 38 1/2” wide each

M embroidered in white
Natural with Age Spots

Age spots, but other wise in good condition for age.  Photos shows sheet folded in quarters. Bought from a Pennsylvania Antique Textile Dealer. 

18th Century Fine Linen Sheet

85” length x 67” wide

2 panels – 33 1/2” wide each
Bleached White, Age Spots

Very fine stitching and small hem. There are repairs on the sheet and some worn spots. Bought from a Pennsylvania Antique Textile Dealer. Useable. 

This is a nice photo showing the comparison of the different textures of homespun fabric.

Copy and photos by Jan Riser.

The Historic Fashion Workshop Series: “To the Making of Your Breeches”

Burnley and Trowbridge Company specializes in historically accurate fabrics, notions, patterns, research material and related items.

"In keeping with our commitment to the education and perpetuation of the interest in Historic Fashion, we have developed a series of Hands-on Workshops.All are conducted in Williamsburg VA, only 2.5 miles from the Historic District. Our facility is a private and self-contained environment where you can "immerse" yourself in the learning process. Some of the Workshops offered in the past have been Gown Draping, Stays, Breeches, Unlined Frock Coats, Lady's Jackets, Wigs and Makeup, Riding Habits, Cloaks and Outerwear, Silk Hats & Caps, and Deportment. As always, your continued patronage and support have allowed us to bring you these workshops."

“To the Making of Your Breeches”

A Hands-On Workshop

Friday Afternoon, September 18th, Saturday, September 19th & Sunday, September 20th 2015

 The most common legwear worn by men during the eighteenth-century was a pair of breeches.  Coming into fashion during the 1660s this garment fastened around the waist, fit firmly and smoothly across the thighs, and ended below the knees.  Over the course of 2 1/2 days, join Journeyman Tailor, Neal Hurst, as we learn the 18th century tailor’s method of taking the measure, patterning and constructing a well fitted pair of breeches.  Participants will have the option of choosing a flap or button front and will construct their own breeches using period hand sewing techniques.

This is a Level 3 Workshop

Class size will be limited to 12 Participants

Registration Deadline August 18th, 2015

Copy from Burnley and Trowbridge. For more information go here.

Pink Silk Brochade Robe A La Francaise, 1770-1780

Sack back open gown of rose pink ribbed silk brocaded with scattered multicolored flower sprays and small cream flower sprigs, looped cream silk fringe trim, bodice with pendant self fabric bands to cross-over and pin under arms, center front eyelets forlacing, skirt knife pleated to bodice, interior linen waist tapes and loops for polonaise effect, homespun linen bodice and sleeve linings, hem deeply faced with soft cream China silk, (some seams unstitched, bodice alterations, center front waist repair.

Price Realized: $ 2990.00

Copy and photos from Augusta Auctions.

Ladies Hooded Silk Cloak, 1790s

Brown tabby silk, channel quilted stand collar, 2 blue silk piped front arm slits w/ 3 blue silk covered buttons, oversized drawstring hood w/ blue silk lining & outer bow, blue silk cloak lining, L 48", (lining torn at neck, shoulders & hood, reveals cotton batting, several places blue silk covering missing over cotton cord piping, cord detached on collar & hood, 1" unstitched at front where hood attaches to cape) very good. Brooklyn Museum

Price Realized: $ 3600.00

Copy and photos from Augusta Auctions.