For General George Washington, the
mundane duties of supply and logistics would come to be as important as
strategy and tactics. Washington, who
cut his teeth on the western frontier during the French and Indian War, was
keenly aware that appropriate clothing was crucial to the fighting trim of his
men. When the cash-strapped Continental
Congress decided in 1775 to supply the army with linen hunting shirts,
Washington was concerned that the men would be ill-prepared for cold
weather. In a letter to Massachusetts
authorities, the general strongly suggested an article of clothing that could
be worn under the frock and would be “cheaper and more convenient” than a full
uniform. Each soldier, he thought,
needed to have “a warm Waistcoat.”
From the drawing rooms of London to the
wild American backcountry, the waistcoat was a ubiquitous article of clothing
in the 18th century. At this
year’s CLA fundraising auction, bidders will have the opportunity to take home
a custom-made circa 1750 waistcoat from artist Karen Hainlen. The waistcoat is one of the most crucial
articles of clothing for today’s reenactors, and Hainlen offers some of the
finest garments available to the living history community. This waistcoat is made from period
appropriate linsey-woolsey, hand spun and hand woven by Hainlen. The artist, who keeps historical authenticity
paramount to her work, used an authentic period pattern by “L.P. Ryan.”
The back and lining is cut from 100%
linen material. All topstitching, buttonholes and eyelets are done by
hand. This waistcoat has functional pockets on the outside and a hidden pocket
inside the left front. The outside shoulder seam has been designed to
18th century style but the lining shoulder seam has been cut to 21st century
style so that the wearer "feels" a comfortable modern shoulder
seam. Even small details like the
buttons have received close attention to blend seamlessly with the
garment. “I use a button base,” explains
the artist, “and cover it with the same Linsey-Woolsey” used on the front of
the waistcoat. The buyer may keep this
waistcoat – an X-large, 46-48 - or trade for one of a different style, size or
material preference. A trade may require additional time to make a custom
waistcoat.
Hainlen, who’s listed as one of the
nation’s top artisans by Early American Life magazine, has been sewing
since she was eight years old and has been spinning and weaving for nearly two
decades. The artist notes that the CLA
is an important facet of her career. “It
means that I am an artisan that does quality work keeping with the traditions
that our early patriot ancestors used. I like using these skills that I
have learned, keeping them alive. There is just something very rewarding
when making something entirely from scratch and also very period correct.”
For more
information on the work of the artist, contact:
Karen Hainlen
Apple Cart
Creations
www.applecartcreations.com
765-210-4080
Copy by Joshua
Shepherd with photos by David
Wright
